Ramsess occupies an eighteenth-century house that was once a shipping agency, under wide stone arches and in a nineteen-sixties setting. The table has been family-run since 2000, and the cooking rests on Judeo-Moroccan recipes: couscous, tagines, kefta, fish, vegetable dishes. In the evening, candles and live music give dinner a livelier turn. The room is small: it is better to book.